I've Tried Hundreds of Whiskies. This Affordable Canadian Rye Is a Well-Kept Secret
When I first got into whiskey years ago, I learned about the stigma surrounding many Canadian whiskies. People often saw them as barely interesting light blends. Still, Canadian whisky had its moment in the U.S. during Prohibition, thanks to the long border that made smuggling easy.
Even after Prohibition ended, Canadian whisky stayed popular because Americans wanted lighter spirits. The U.S. even created a "light whiskey" category in 1968 to compete with vodka and imported blends. Canadian whisky also stayed competitive by undercutting the price of American bourbon or rye—except for American blends like Seagram’s 7.
At bars where I worked, guests often asked for Canadian blends. They were usually cheaper than our well whiskey and even our well vodka.
My view of Canadian whisky shifted in the early 2010s when people discovered that WhistlePig, a brand claiming Vermont roots, actually sourced its rye from Alberta. At first, I dismissed it as just another brand buying bulk whisky from Canada. But my real turning point came in early 2020. Don Livermore from J.P. Wiser’s came to Boston to teach a Canadian whisky masterclass for my chapter of the United States Bartenders’ Guild. That session opened my eyes to the laws and production styles behind Canadian whisky. I finally understood why some of it tastes bland while others are truly world-class.
Want the latest whiskey news, deals, and reviews? Sign up for the Whiskey Wednesday newsletter.
Canadian producers often distill rye at a lower proof to use as a flavoring agent, adding it to a base of nearly neutral corn or grain whisky distilled at 90 to 95 percent ABV. Some Canadian ryes are just 10 percent rye, the rest being high-proof corn whisky.
By contrast, U.S. law requires rye whiskey to have at least 51 percent rye in the mash bill and be distilled below 80 percent ABV (with most producers keeping it under 70 percent). In the U.S., distillers co-ferment all the grains together, while Canadian producers distill each grain separately and then blend them after aging. This lets them tailor each step—milling, cooking, fermentation, yeast, distillation, and aging—to the specific grain.
Since 1938, U.S. rye whiskey has had to age in new, charred oak barrels, which contribute caramel, vanilla, coconut, and spice flavors. Canada doesn’t have that restriction. Lighter blended whiskies often age in used barrels, while the bold, 100-percent rye components age in new or lightly used casks. This flexibility allows Canadian distillers to assemble a multitude of whiskies through the art of blending for taste and consistency.
WhistlePig’s success with its 10-year-old, 100-percent Canadian rye in 2010 pushed Canadian producers to reevaluate their own rye stocks. J.P. Wiser’s had actually released Lot No. 40 Rye back in 1998 made from a single grain, but it didn’t catch on and was discontinued. WhistlePig’s popularity likely motivated the brand to bring it back in 2012.
Courtesy Image
Lot No. 40 is made at the Hiram Walker Distillery in Windsor, Ontario, under the guidance of master blender Don Livermore. Originally created by Michael Booth in 1998, the whisky was inspired by his ancestor Joshua Booth, who likely made whisky himself in the late 1700s in Ernestown, Ontario.
The name comes from Lot 40, the site of Booth's ancestor's gristmill and distillery. The original recipe used 90 percent unmalted and 10 percent malted Canadian rye. When Livermore relaunched the brand in 2012, he updated the formula to use 100 percent unmalted rye and microbial enzymes in place of malt. He also aged it in new, char number two American oak barrels.
The whisky is made using a column still followed by a 12,000-liter traditional copper pot still. While there’s no age statement, Canadian law requires a minimum of three years. Most believe Lot No. 40 is aged around six to eight years.
At 43 percent ABV, Lot No. 40 drinks like a softer version of American rye, especially those made with 95 percent rye and 5 percent barley. On the nose, it offers caramel, honey, spice, and hints of fruit. The palate brings grassy rye, spice, caramel, menthol, and vanilla. It’s complex and balanced enough for sipping, but also shines in cocktails.
And it’s easier on the wallet. Lot No. 40 is noticeably cheaper than a similarly aged WhistlePig 6 Year Rye, so using it in cocktails doesn’t feel extravagant. While Canadian rye varies widely in style and quality, many 100 percent rye expressions are worth seeking out—especially for fans of American straight rye. Lot No. 40 is a great place to start.
Related: WhistlePig Has Just Dropped a New Bourbon With Impressive Age Statement