Expert’s definitive guide to the skincare you can & can’t use when pregnant – the main ‘dangers’ to babies & safe swaps

FINDING out you’re pregnant is incredibly exciting, but can be overwhelming too.

As soon as that blue line appears on the test, there is a long list of rules to follow.

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Not all skincare products are safe to use while pregnant, breastfeeding or even trying to conceive[/caption]

It’s not just about avoiding blue cheese and saying no to a G&T – you might also need to switch up your skincare routine.

Not all skincare products and treatments are safe to use when trying to conceive, pregnant or breastfeeding.

Some because they may harm your baby, and others because they aren’t compatible with the hormonal skin changes that pregnancy brings. 

To help you navigate this, we asked consultant dermatologist Dr Justine Hextall for advice on which products and treatments you can keep in your routine and which to relegate to the back of the bathroom cupboard or pause for the next nine months.

Remember, though, that this is only a guide, and it’s important to check with your doctor or midwife if you are unsure whether or not to use a product. 

Justine Hextall

Consultant Dermatologist Dr Justine Hextall shares her pregnancy beauty advice[/caption]

Which skincare ingredients and salon treatments should you avoid during pregnancy? 

Retinoids

Retinoids (aka vitamin A) are a family of ingredients that include prescription products like Roaccutane and Tretinoin, and cosmetic ones like retinal and retinol.

All retinoids are a no-go during pregnancy, but especially Roaccutane, a medication used to treat acne.

“This is not safe during pregnancy,” says Dr Hextall.

“Robust contraception is a must when taking Roaccutane, and doctors insist on monthly pregnancy tests.

“It is also advised to wait a month after stopping this medication before attempting to become pregnant.”

If you normally use a retinoid serum to keep early signs of ageing at bay, there are alternative ingredients you can use.

Skin+ME

Azelaic acid is a great alternative to retinol during pregnancy[/caption]

Skin + Me Brighten + Boost Calming Azelaic Acid Serum, £19.99

Dr Hextall suggests “azelaic acid to brighten, vitamin C to encourage collagen and elastin production and hyaluronic acid to plump the skin.”

Naturium

Nicinamide helps reduce inflammation and balance oil production[/caption]

Naturium Niacinamide Serum 12% Plus Zinc 2%, £18

To replace retinoids used for breakouts, “azelaic acid will help reduce inflammation and niacinamide will balance sebum.”

Hydroquinone 

Like prescription retinoids, hydroquinone, a drug which treats hyperpigmentation, AKA those pesky patches of darker skin, should also be stopped before becoming pregnant.

Experts aren’t entirely sure how hydroquinone can impact a foetus, but they do know that it has a very high absorption rate simply from being applied to the skin.

“Safe alternatives for pigmentation include azelaic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C and liquorice root extract,” advises Dr Hextall. 

The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C and EGF Serum, £15

Salicylic acid 

If you have oily or spot-prone skin, you probably use a cleanser or toner containing salicylic acid.

This is related to Aspirin, which Dr Hextall explains “can cross the placenta and may be dangerous in pregnancy.”

Topical salicylic acid, though, the kind you apply to your skin, “can be used in low doses such as 2% and below when pregnant.”

Some companies will share how much salicylic acid their product contains, but others are cagey about their percentages.

If you’re unsure how much salicylic acid is in a formula, steer clear.

“I would suggest azelaic acid as a safe alternative to treat blemishes, as well as lactic acid,” explains Dr Hextall.

“Niacinamide is also safe and will strengthen the skin barrier at the same time as reducing inflammation in blemishes.”

The Ordinary

Lactic acid is a gentle alternative to salycilic acid[/caption]

The Ordinary Lactic Acid 5% + HA, £7.70

Essential oils 

Essential oils are a tricky one.

“Often they are used to aid sleep and reduce stress, which is helpful in pregnancy, but some are contraindicated for various reasons,” Dr Hextall says.

“Sage, rosemary, thyme and cinnamon bark, among others, have been shown to stimulate uterine contractions, and for obvious reasons, this isn’t advisable.”

Essential oils can also cause irritation and allergies, and as pregnancy can make your skin more sensitive, you might be more likely than normal to experience a reaction.

Botox

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You should avoid Botox throughout your pregnancy[/caption]

As a general rule, you and your aesthetician need to go on a break during your pregnancy.

Nearly all in-clinic cosmetic treatments are unsuitable when you’re expecting.

As for Botox, there have been animal studies which concluded it was dangerous to use when pregnant.

“Botox has not been shown to enter breast milk, though,” says Dr Hextall, so you may be able to restart appointments after your baby is born as long as you proceed with caution. 

Laser treatments

The key issue with lasers during pregnancy is less a risk to your baby, but more that “there is a risk of increased sensitivity and post-laser pigmentation,” explains Dr Hextall.

“There also isn’t enough data for the use of lasers in pregnancy to advise them.”

Essentially, having a laser treatment may cause more skin problems than it solves, so don’t waste your money.

This includes IPL, lasers used for hair removal and radiofrequency lasers. 

Dermal fillers 

“There are no safety studies for the use of dermal fillers in pregnancy,” cautions Dr Hextall.

“Remember, you are injecting a foreign substance into the skin.”

On a purely cosmetic basis, you may also find that your face becomes puffier with water retention during pregnancy, and fuller pregnancy lips are a thing.

Adding filler into the mix might look odd combined with these hormonal changes. 

Chemical peels

Medium and deep chemical peels often contain retinoids, hydroquinone and high doses of salicylic acid, all of which Dr Hextall has already put on our banned list.

“Peels are not advisable during pregnancy and many are also best avoided when breastfeeding,” she adds.

“Lighter lactic acid, azelaic acid, and low concentration glycolic and mandelic acid peels can be carried out with caution.”

If you did go down that route when pregnant, it’s more important than ever to ensure you are visiting a good, well-qualified aesthetician.

Gel manicures 

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Gel nails aren’t a complete no-no, but there’s some precautions which are sensible to take[/caption]

Whether you’re pregnant or not, Dr Hextall is always cautious about nail treatments and the potential for allergies.

“There are allergens such as methacrylate, which is used to harden BIAB, acrylic and gel nails, which can cause significant allergies.

“There isn’t evidence that there is necessarily an increased risk of allergy in pregnancy, but for some, the skin is drier and therefore more prone to irritation and damage.

“When the skin breaks down around the nail, there is a risk of infection, and this is a concern.”

There are also risks around inhaling chemicals.

“If they are inhaled, we are not clear regarding their safety,” continues Dr Hextall.

“I would therefore suggest a suitable mask and ensure any salon is well ventilated.”

Ideally, you should reduce how regularly you have your nails done to minimise risk and allow them to recover between treatments. 

Hair dye

Hair dye comes with a risk of allergy at the best of times, and this is heightened in pregnancy.

“Some people find they develop allergies to substances that were previously tolerable,” cautions Dr Hextall.

“I would suggest avoiding potential allergens such as permanent hair dye, or at the very least, if you have used this product safely before, then still have a new pre-treatment patch test.”

It’s always better to be on the safe side.

“Avoid contact with scalp skin as much as possible and consider safer, semi-permanent dyes.”

Bleach should also be avoided. Dr Hextall explains that “hydrogen peroxide and ammonia found in many bleaching products can be absorbed through skin and the fumes themselves inhaled.

At the very least, make sure that if applied, there is no direct skin contact and that the room is well ventilated.

Ammonia-free highlights would be safer, as would natural hair dyes.”

Which skincare ingredients, products and treatments are safe during pregnancy? 

Hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid is a crowd-pleasing ingredient.

It’s suitable for all skin types and plays nicely with other actives.

Dr Hextall confirms that “this is safe for use in pregnancy and when layered under a light moisturiser can really help to plump and hydrate skin, protecting the all-important skin barrier.

During pregnancy, skin can be prone to dryness and irritation, so this is a good addition to your routine.”

Vichy

Hyaluronic Acid is pregnancy-safe, and helps moisturise skin[/caption]

Vichy Mineral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Serum, £28

Vitamin C

Another ingredient with a big thumbs up from Dr Hextall is vitamin C.

We are more likely to experience unwanted pigmentation, especially larger patches of this called melasma, when pregnant, which vitamin C acts as a layer of protection against.

“It is a strong antioxidant and will shield the skin from UV and pollution, both of which contribute to skin damage and pigmentation.

A word of caution, though, pregnancy skin can be more sensitive, and at high doses, vitamin C can be an irritant.

Start at around 10% if introducing during pregnancy.”

Simple

If you’re new to Vitamin C, start at 10% strength to avoid irritation[/caption]

Simple 10% Vitamin C + E + F Booster Serum, £9.99

Sunscreen

Not wearing a good, high-factor, broad-spectrum sunscreen on your face during pregnancy will increase your chances of hyperpigmentation patches popping up.

All SPFs are broadly considered safe during pregnancy, but if you want to be extra cautious, Dr Hextall says, “there is some talk of potential hormone disruption from certain chemical sunscreen filters such as oxybenzone and octinoxate.

For many in dermatology, this is theoretical, though, and without robust data.”

If you want to avoid these ingredients, try a mineral-based sunscreen which uses zinc and titanium dioxide as filters instead. 

Naked Sundays

SPF is a must-wear, whether you’re pregnant or not[/caption]

Naked Sundays Collagen Glow 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF50+, £28

Collagen supplements

The short answer is that collagen supplements are safe to take during pregnancy, but you still need to do your research.

“A good, hydrolysed collagen has the best chance of absorption to support healthy skin, nails and hair,” recommends Dr Hextall.

“Seek out high-quality supplements that are as free as possible from additives and fillers.

“Be cautious about other added ingredients like herbs, and if in doubt, seek medical advice.”

It’s also really important not to exceed the recommended dose. “Excessive protein can cause kidney damage, and our kidneys have to work harder in pregnancy,” Dr Hextall adds.

LED masks

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LED face masks are generally thought to be a pregnancy-safe alternative to other anti-wrinkle treatments[/caption]

Love your LED mask? You don’t necessarily need to give it up.

Dr Hextall says that “both high-dose in-clinic treatments and at-home LED masks are considered a safe and effective alternative to other treatments that may be contraindicated in pregnancy for acne and rosacea.”

The only potential risk is that blue light can sometimes increase the risk of pigmentation, especially if you have a deeper skin tone.