Ponant Le Champlain: an immersive Caribbean voyage
Casting off on to the high seas in search of new shores may be an exquisite way to see the world, but it can bring a serious dose of "cruise guilt" – a sense of shame due to the environmental impact of this mode of travel.
Step forward Ponant, which started a journey towards eco-responsibility by switching to the less harmful low marine gas oil in 2019. In 2024 it became the first cruise line to receive Green Globe Certification – meeting 44 stringent sustainability criteria in the process – and is on course to launch a zero-emissions ship by 2030.
So it is with a lighter conscience that we board Le Champlain – one of 13 vessels in Ponant's fleet – in St Lucia and set sail on the eight-night "Cruising the Caribbean's Windward Islands" itinerary.
The cabins
With just 92 accommodations on the five-deck vessel, Le Champlain strikes the right balance between privacy and having the opportunity to mingle with your fellow sailors.
You can choose from seven cabin categories, and all offer restrained contemporary elegance. Our Prestige Stateroom is heavenly, featuring a king-size bed with a pillow "menu" to ensure the deepest and most delicious slumber, a shower room with a separate toilet, and luxury touches including Diptyque bath products.
Those who must work on board will also be pleased to hear the Wi-Fi didn't go offline once during our voyage. Waking up each morning to sip coffee, delivered by the 24-hour concierge room service, on our private balcony while soaking up views of the glittering waves is an absolute joy.
The itinerary
The cruise begins and ends in St Lucia, dropping anchor at six islands and giving a great introduction to this part of the Eastern Caribbean.
The stops include Dominica, which delivers the drama with its rainforest-covered volcanic mountains, and Terre-de-Haut, a smidge of an island in the French Les Saintes archipelago, which enchants with its brightly hued colonial-style clapboard houses and super-welcoming Creole-speaking locals.
We spent a day exploring Barbados and its capital and UNESCO World Heritage site Bridgetown. As one of the few non-volcanic islands in the region, the former British colony's topography is gentler, with undulating sugar cane plantations as far as the eye can see, but its history and rocky road to independence are deeply moving.
Eating and entertainment
Le Champlain has two fabulous restaurants to suit your mood. Le Nautilus offers an elegant à la carte menu in a more formal setting for evenings, while on-deck Le Grill is perfect for lunchtime bites or dining under a canopy of twinkling stars later on.
A life-long memory, and one that is fully deserving of Ponant’s "luxury" label, is made on Mayreau, the tiniest island in the St Vincent and the Grenadines archipelago. Under swaying palm trees, the hard-working crew magic up an incredible banquet, including barbecued lobster plucked from the sea and ice-cold champagne, served on crisp white linen-covered tables, with crockery and glassware transported from the ship.
You can also dip into the onboard entertainment, which ranges from a talented three-strong dance troupe to cute activities such as quizzes, "Caribbean bingo" with cacao beans for markers (chocolate is big business here) and gentle morning stretch sessions. The futuristic Blue Eye bar, located in Le Champlain's hull below water level, is also worth checking out. At night, it is a unique and atmospheric space to kick back and enjoy a cocktail or two.
Education with the experts
The Smithsonian element of the cruise – we are joined by two lecturers – is a major draw. The experts' daily talks in the theatre are highly attended, with lively Q&A sessions afterwards for those keen to take a deeper dive into the destination rather than skim the surface as many cruises typically do. Caribbean historian Bernard Moitt, a professor at Virginia Commonwealth University, does not shy away from difficult topics such as the legacy of slavery in the Caribbean, while presenting fascinating cultural and social insights into the region. Meanwhile, coral reef ecologist and conservationist Joshua Voss shares his extensive marine knowledge gleaned from more than 40 scientific expeditions in an accessible way.
Unforgettable excursions
One excursion per port is included in the price on all Ponant itineraries (except aboard Le Paul Gauguin), but if timings allow, you can book more. You are encouraged to select the ones that float your boat ahead of boarding, but you can change them if necessary. The selection on our cruise was well thought out, offering everything from rainforest walks and chocolate plantation visits to historical tours, and scuba diving sessions were also an option for PADI-qualified passengers.
Our highlight – and a bucket-list moment – was snorkelling at the Molinere Underwater Sculpture Park, just off Grenada's west coast. Renowned sculptor Jason DeCaires Taylor installed statues on the ocean bed in the wake of the devastating Hurricane Ivan in 2004 to help fragile coral reef systems recover. Nearly two decades on, "Vicissitudes", the headline installation featuring a circle of 26 children clasping hands, is an extraordinary vision thanks to the sponges, coral and algae that have attached themselves to the statues, lending them an air of precious, ancient treasures.
Rachel was a guest of Ponant on the eight-night 'Cruising the Caribbean's Windward Islands' itinerary; uk.ponant.com