The Training Secret Behind Chris Sharma’s Legendary Climbing Career
Known for his unmatched skill and groundbreaking first ascents, Chris Sharma is one of the most influential rock climbers of all time. At just 14, he won the 1996 U.S. Open Bouldering Nationals, setting the bar for world-class climbing. Over the years, he’s continuously pushed the boundaries of the sport, revolutionizing climbing with every new challenge he tackles.
At 44, Sharma has spent most of his life scaling cliffs and pushing his limits. So, what fuels his motivation after more than 30 years? For him, climbing is far more than just a sport—it’s a lifelong journey of personal growth and self-expression.
"I get inspired by these amazing rock faces, and that's just what I do," Sharma told Men's Journal. "That's my form of expressing myself. My form of personal realization is through doing first ascents, and I need to do whatever I can to be able to rise to that level."
Sharma’s Unconventional Climb to Greatness
If you spend any time in the weight room at your gym, you’ve heard it before: consistency is king. Sticking to a structured program is often the secret to making real gains. But in sports like rock climbing, that formula doesn’t always apply—at least not for Sharma. For him, progress isn’t about rigid plans. It’s about following curiosity, chasing challenges, and pushing hard when it counts.
"I've never really followed a structured training plan. It's much more dependent on what kind of grabs my interest in the moment, and I think that's different than most people's approach, and it's one of the things that has differentiated my climbing throughout the years."
While Sharma doesn't lift or follow a typical workout plan regularly, he still pushes himself, going after harder and harder climbing routes consistently.
Related: 5 Rock Climbing Steps to Get You Scaling Walls Like a Pro
While Sharma prefers climbing outdoors, he admits there’s a time and place for indoor sessions too—especially during Barcelona’s sweltering summer months, when temps regularly soar into the 80s.
"It's an amazing tool to stay in shape during the summer months, kind of prepare my body, and keep myself fit for the next season. I just basically repeat that every year."
The Formula for Lifelong Climbing Progress
Like many athletes, climbers are often seen as having a shelf life. Hit your 30s, and people assume it’s all downhill—aching joints, worn-out muscles, and fading strength. Sharma's lengthy career proves otherwise.
"No one has really seen the full lifespan of a rock climber, and, you know, I just turned 44, I'm still kind of pushing my limits, climbing at the highest level I've ever climbed, and I feel like maybe I can still improve," he said.
His longevity in the sport comes back to his desire to keep challenging himself and chase the routes that inspire him, despite his age. He's not shying away from first ascents anytime soon. Sustaining that high level of technique and mental toughness is crucial to long-term success in climbing.
"We're seeing that even people in their 60s are climbing some of the hardest climbs of their lives. So, climbing really just comes down to consistency, and there's a level of maintenance to that."