The rebirth of Monaco

Monaco has been a luxury playground for almost 150 years. The idea to open a casino, luring in the rich and great from across Europe, was born of a need to save the state from financial ruin.

It worked immediately – and has done ever since. Many of Monaco's current clientele have been visiting the Principality faithfully for decades, funding its status as a superbly wealthy pleasure enclave with their high-rolling losses and taste for fine dining and high fashion.

The success provided by that loyalty has not come without a price. Catering to the old guard has left Monaco lagging behind other resort towns in Europe and the Middle East when it comes to attracting the younger clientele who will provide the next generation of success.

Much of the work done to lure Gen Z has been carried out by Monte-Carlo Société des Bains de Mer (SBM) but its contribution is only part of the story. The renovation of its hotels – including the legendary Hôtel de Paris and Hôtel Hermitage on Casino Square – were the first steps, refreshing the accommodation to match the demands of the modern traveller. But the neighbouring Fairmont and Hôtel Métropole have also undergone significant redesign. For this season and seasons to come, Monaco is again a destination for the young.

Where to eat

At the end of 2024 an entirely new district of Monaco – Mareterra – was reclaimed from the sea and is now host to a new culinary concept for the area.

Marlow is framed as a British dining destination, the first in the city, and boasts smart interiors by Hugo Toro. Polished blond wood gleams in the abundant Riviera sunshine and the styling of the dining room feels like a contemporary rendition of a cruise liner from the jazz era. The whole atmosphere is relaxed and informal, the team youthful and vibrant; a marked change from my experience of Monaco in years gone by.

The food, rather than the novelty, is what will bring in the tourists: a luxurious take on the Scotch egg preceded some beautiful spring lamb for my lunch, cooked to perfection and truly representing an elevated take on English classics. Despite the excellence of the food, it was the enthusiasm and vitality of the young staff and clientele that made this visit worthwhile.

There is an equally youthful brigade in the kitchen at Yannick Alléno's Pavyllon, found inside Hôtel Hermitage. Gallery-style seating for lunch or dinner makes the pass a theatrical experience and the energy of the young chefs working there passes on to the diners watching them.

That electric buzz is superbly countered by the serenity of L'Abysse Monte-Carlo, just across the hall and the second Alléno restaurant in the hotel. The design of the space is subdued and calming, pale stone mixing with soothingly soft blue accents to create a maritime haven.

No windows means no distractions from the balletic display put on by chef Yasunari Okazaki as he slices and rolls each piece of sushi in front of you. This is sincere and considered fine dining, but delivered with the slightest of cheeky grins from the chef, not a hint of stuffiness can be detected. The goal of maintaining high Monegasque standards while evolving to new societal expectations is evident, and clearly being met: most of the other diners were young; two weeks after I visited it was awarded two Michelin stars.

Modernising the fine-dining experience in the city is just one of the pillars upon which Monaco looks to build its future success. A residency by social-famous pastry chef Cédric Grolet will open for summer 2025, bringing the eyes of the TikTok and Instagram generation as well as the extraordinary sweets and pastries he creates.

Where to party

The one-stop option is Amazónico, boasting pride of place atop the legendary (and also recently renovated) Café de Paris. Exquisite cocktails and gargantuan slabs of grilled meat are served in an increasingly raucous and energetic setting before heading down into the hidden depths of Selva to dance and drink until dawn begins to break.

If you prefer to start the party under the daytime sunshine – and if you're on holiday, why wouldn’t you? – head to Jondal or Sea Satin, legendary day clubs from Ibiza and Mykonos respectively that have begun popping up at Monte-Carlo Beach. Free sea shuttles are available from the famous Port Hercule, for those not staying in the hotel, while those fortunate enough to have their own boat can merely sail up to the jetty to begin a lunch that can last beyond midnight.

Mayfair favourite Coya also now has an address on the Avenue Princesse Grace for those who love pisco sours, though with a relatively reserved curfew of 2am. Of course, if you're really committed to the nightlife, there's always the spot that started it all: the Casino de Monte-Carlo. It has been the best venue of its kind for many years now and, while an opulent new cigar club has been added this year, some things shouldn't be fixed as they frankly aren't broken.

Where to unwind

It's never too early to start looking after your body, something the youth of today are far more aware of than my generation ever was. All that eating and partying must be tempered with relaxation and pampering, and Monaco has that covered as well. The renovations at Hôtel Métropole have included a new Guerlian Spa, which is a soothing ivory oasis, sure to provide sweet relief from the searing afternoon heat at the height of the Riviera summer and an ideal place for a recovery session after a long night spent on a dancefloor.

If you prefer your recovery to be a little more active, there can’t be many better places to train than the Thermes Marins. The views across the Mediterranean and of the yachts in the harbour provide excellent treadmill motivation, and an even better backdrop for the outdoor Jacuzzi soak afterwards.

You may think of Monaco as a dated outpost, and that thought may recently have been justified, but it's time to give it another chance. A lot has changed since you were there last, even if that was only last year.

Nick Hendry was a guest of Monte-Carlo SBM