French bistro dining — at home — with seasonal recipes

France’s bistros have spread their iconic dishes to restaurants around the world, but since those very dishes originated with regional French home cooking, it stands to reason they can readily be made at home with produce from your local farmers market, grocer or backyard garden.

Local cherries are in full swing. Asparagus season is winding down, but there are still plenty available over the next few weeks, so take advantage of them sooner rather than later. English peas are coming into the markets from the cooler growing regions. And strawberries, like cherries, are having their moment now.

Here are recipes and inspiration for celebrating the season.

ASPARAGUS MIMOSA

For the French, “mimosa” means a dish with hard-cooked eggs. In its purest version, the egg whites and yokes are sieved or finely chopped separately. Served in bistros all over France, this colorful Asparagus Mimosa is an ideal accompaniment to baked ham, roast chicken, or served on its own as a first course. Here, in a nod to California, I’ve grilled the asparagus and added finely chopped pistachios.

Serves 3 to 4

INGREDIENTS

1 pound asparagus, trimmed2 tablespoons pistachio oil, plus 1/4 cup for the vinaigrette1 teaspoon Dijon mustard1 tablespoon red wine vinegar2 tablespoons capers, rinsed, drained and finely chopped2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley1/8 teaspoon white pepper1/4 teaspoon sea salt2 hard-cooked eggs, shells removed1/4 cup chopped, toasted pistachios

DIRECTIONS

Brush the asparagus with 2 tablespoons of the pistachio oil. Over high heat, heat a stovetop grill pan. When it is hot, add the asparagus, turning often, until the asparagus changes color to a bright green and offers only slight resistance when pierced with a fork, about 5 minutes. Transfer the asparagus to a side plate.

In a bowl, combine the remaining pistachio oil with the mustard and whisk well to emulsify. Whisk in the vinegar, pepper and salt. Taste and adjust seasonings.

Pool half the vinaigrette in the middle of a serving platter or divide evenly among individual salad plates. Top with the asparagus. Drizzle with some of the remaining vinaigrette.

Cut the eggs in half crosswise. Remove the yolks from the eggs and set aside. Using a small mesh sieve, and holding it over the center of the asparagus, push the whites of the eggs through the mesh. You will need to scrape the bottom to release all the sieved whites. Alternatively, chop the eggs. Repeat with the egg yolks. Sprinkle the pistachios on top and serve.

CLASSIC FRENCH PEAS AND BUTTER LETTUCE

In spring or anytime there are fresh English peas available, you are likely to find this dish on a bistro menu. The peas literally cook in the natural moisture of the lettuce and that little bit of butter and both that is added. This is perfection served with something simple like a roast chicken or grilled meat that allows the peas to be the stars of the plate.

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

1 large head butter lettuce2 bunches of green onions1 tablespoon unsalted butter1 tablespoon chicken broth3 pounds English peas, shelled½ teaspoon sea salt¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Coarsely chop the lettuce and finely chop the whites of the onions and half the greens.

In a large sauté pan or casserole over medium-high heat, melt the butter. When it foams, add the lettuce and onions and toss. Add 1 tablespoon of the chicken broth, reduce the heat to low and cover.

When the lettuce is well wilted, about 5 minutes, add the peas, stir and cover.

When the peas are tender, 3 to 5 minutes if young, slightly longer if more mature, taste for seasonings and add salt and pepper as desired. Serve hot.

COQ AU VIN

This beloved chicken dish, a year-round bistro classic, varies from region to region, depending upon the local wine that’s used. Although Pinot Noir is the traditional wine, other dry reds can be used, and in some regions of France white wine is the choice. In Northern California we too have multiple options, Zinfandel, Merlot, and Pinot Noir among them. A key step, however, regardless of the wine used, is to marinate the chicken the night before.

Serve with parslied potatoes and lots of crusty bread for sopping up the sauce. This dish, like many stews, is even better the next day, reheated.

Serves 6 to 8

INGREDIENTS

2 cups Pinot Noir, Zinfandel or other dry red wine3 sprigs fresh thyme1 bay leaf16 pearl onions (frozen is fine; thaw before using)1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, halved1 chicken 5 pounds, cut into serving pieces or substitute 4 thighs and 4 legs3 ounces lardons or substitute thick cut bacon cut into 1-inch pieces4 tablespoons unsalted butter1 tablespoon flour2 tablespoons brandy½ teaspoon sea salt1/4 cup finely chopped flat leaf parsley½ pound white or brown mushrooms, halved

DIRECTIONS

In a large glass or ceramic bowl, combine the wine, thyme and bay leaf. Add the onions, ½ teaspoon of the pepper, and the chicken pieces. Turn several times, then cover and place in the refrigerator overnight, at least 12 hours and preferably 24.

Remove the chicken and onions from the marinade onto a baking sheet or platter lined with a paper towel and pat dry. Strain the marinade into a bowl reserving the bay leaf and thyme sprigs. Set aside.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

In a large Dutch oven or other heavy bottomed, non-reactive pot, over medium heat, warm 3 tablespoons of the butter, then add the lardons or bacon and cook, stirring, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. With a slotted spoon, remove the bacon to a bowl and set aside. Pat dry theonions and add them to the pan. Sauté until lightly golden, about 10 minutes. Remove to the bowl with the bacon.

Increase the heat to medium high. Add the well-dried chicken to the pan, a few pieces at a time if necessary — do not overcrowd — and cook, turning as needed, until the chicken begins to brown, about 10 minutes. Repeat as needed, removing the lightly browned chicken to a bowl.

When all the chicken is done, return to the pan and sprinkle with the flour, turning as needed until flour and chicken are browned, about another 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and pour the brandy over the chicken. Using a long-handled match, ignite the brandy and let burn until the flames subside.

Return the bacon and onions and any collected juices to the pan and place over medium heat. Add 1 cup of the wine and deglaze the pan, scraping the bottom with a wooden spoon to dislodge any browned bits. Add the remaining cup of wine, the reserved thyme and bay, half the chopped parsley, salt, and the remaining pepper.

Cover the pan and place in the preheated oven. Cook, turning once or twice, until the chicken is opaque and easily pierced with a fork, 45 to 50 minutes.

While the chicken is cooking, heat the remaining butter in a small saucepan and sauté the mushrooms, stirring several times, until golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Set aside. About 15 minutes before the chicken is done, stir in the mushrooms.

When the chicken is done, remove the pan from the oven. Remove the chicken to a warmed platter. Place the pan over medium-high heat and reduce until the sauce has thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 5 to 7 minutes.

Return the chicken to the pan, cook another 3 to 4 minutes, spooning the sauce over the chicken. Sprinkle with the remaining parsley and serve directly from the pan, or transfer to a warmed serving dish.

CHERRY CLAFOUTIS

Clafoutis, a custard-like pudding thick with locally grown, tart, dark cherries, originated in Limousin, in the center of France. However, the delectable dish has been taken up all over France, and not only are different varieties of cherries used, but different fruits are also. Historically, the cherries are left unpitted, so be sure to warn your guests if you stick to tradition.

Serves 6 to 8

INGREDIENTS

1 1/2 teaspoons unsalted butter1 cup milk1/4 cup heavy whipping cream2/3 cup all-purpose flour, sifted3 eggs1/4 cup granulated sugar1 tablespoon vanilla extract1/4 teaspoon salt3 cups cherries, pitted or unpitted (see note above)1 tablespoon confectioner’s sugar

DIRECTIONS

Preheat an oven to 350 degrees.

Butter a 9- to 10-inch round baking dish, 1 ½ to 2 inches deep and set aside. Combine the milk, cream, flour, eggs, sugar, vanilla extract, and salt in a mixing bowl and beat until the mixture is frothy, about 5 minutes.

Pour enough of the batter into the prepared baking dish to cover the bottom with a layer about 1/4-inch deep. Put the dish in the preheated oven for 2 minutes and then remove it. Cover the surface with a single layer of the cherries and pour the remaining batter over them.

Bake the clafoutis until it is puffed and brown and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean, about 30 to 35 minutes.

Sprinkle with confectioner’s sugar just before serving. Serve warm. Serves 6 to 8

STRAWBERRY MOUSSE

When strawberries are in season, they’re often the featured dessert in bistros. It might be as simple as a bowl of perfect strawberries in red wine, or with crème Chantilly, or in a smooth, delicate mousse like this one.

Serves 6 to 8

INGREDIENTS

1 pint fresh strawberries, stems and hulls removed (plus strawberry slices for garnish)1/3 cup granulated sugar1/4 cup water1 envelope unflavored gelatin1 cup heavy cream

DIRECTIONS

In a blender, puree the strawberries until smooth. Pass the puree through a chinois or a fine mesh sieve if you don’t want seeds in the mousse. Transfer the puree to a large mixing bowl and stir in the sugar.

In a small saucepan, bring the water to a boil. Remove from the heat and sprinkle the gelatin over the top and let stand for about 5 minutes.

Whisk the dissolved gelatin into the strawberry puree. Let cool to room temperature.

Whip the cream to soft peaks and fold into the puree. Spoon the mousse into decorative dessert glasses or bowls and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. To serve, garnish with the reserved strawberry slices.