“Quino” Was a Beloved Guide Who Climbed 5.12, WI6, and M8 Just Shy of 60
Every January, we share a tribute to members of our community who we lost last year. Some were legends, others were pillars of their community, all were climbers. Read the full tribute to Climbers We Lost in 2025 here.
Higinio “Quino” Gonzalez, 59, February 8
Higinio “Quino” Gonzalez was a long-time skiing and rock climbing guide in the Wasatch Range of Utah. An alpinist who had guided Denali over 11 times, he is remembered as a beloved legend of the Wasatch and the guiding community alike. On February 8 of last year, Quino was caught and killed in an avalanche in Utah’s Big Cottonwood Canyon.
A Chilean AMGA-certified rock guide, Quino was known for forging strong, timeless friendships with clients, other guides, students, and partners alike in the mountains. Some said he would give the shirt off his back to a friend or even a stranger in need. “Quino was loved and deeply respected by the Utah climbing and guiding community,” a former colleague shared. “He possessed a quiet, understated, humble brilliance and wit.”
During his impressive guiding career, Quino led trips all over the Americas, from Alaska and Peru’s Cordillera Blanca, to Patagonia’s Ice Cap. He also went on climbing adventures further afield, including on Gasherbrum I, Broads Peak, and K2. He frequently guided with Utah Mountain Adventures and was also a professional member of the American Avalanche Association.
“Quino was an absolute professional,” reflects Jason Martin, executive director of the American Alpine Institute. “He was loved by fellow guides and clients alike. His empathy for those struggling and his gentle demeanor combined with his deep experience made him an exceptional guide and a great friend.”
IFMGA guide Alan Rousseau remembers Quino as being “remarkably strong.” He recalled that at nearly 60 years old, Quino was “still climbing 5.12, WI6, M8, skiing most days, and cycling up the canyons.”
When he wasn’t guiding or summiting technical peaks, he could be found trail running or skinning around the Wasatch, or cycling up Little Cottonwood Canyon. After a day of adventure, he enjoyed espresso and classical music back at home.
Quino is survived by his loving wife, their two step-children, and legions of admiring friends and colleagues. He will be deeply missed.
Read the full tribute to Climbers We Lost in 2025 here.
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