Hey Dibi: Is There Life After Surfing?
Editor’s Note: Have a question for Dibi Fletcher? She’s definitely got answers. Or at least a perspective. Don’t hold back, shoot her a DM on Instagram and ask away. Here’s this week’s dispatch from the Matriarch of Radical…
Hey Dibi…. My husband is in his mid-fifties and has recently recovered from a long and debilitating illness. The one thing that really helped him get through all the setbacks was his dream of surfing again. He’s paddled out a few times on one of the boards he had before his illness, and he really struggles to catch waves and has a hard time standing up. Instead of being elated like he dreamed, he’s really depressed. Do you have any suggestions? - 4Love of Surf
Hey 4Love of Surf… I assume the board he’s paddling out on was made for the shape he was in before his illness and now it’s not so great for the where he’s at physically, which makes sense. I remember when Herbie started his surf shop in the mid ‘70s with the slogan “The Thrill is Back” it was referencing what you are experiencing exactly. During this time the surfboards had gotten so small that guys who weren’t surfing as a profession were becoming more like buoys, sitting on their boards in the lineup, unable to catch waves. So Herb introduced a high-performance longboard, easy to paddle, catch waves and have a blast. I’m thinking that your husband could use a bit more length and volume so he can get the thrill back…
Hey Dibi… I grew up in south Orange County and surfed here all my life. I’m now thinking of moving to another state. I can’t imagine not living by the ocean but can’t afford to stay. Do you think a surfer can be happy landbound? - Ocean Lover
Hey Ocean Lover… I’ve questioned myself a lot about this recently and there are few things I think worth considering. One of the greatest pleasures of “beach life” was being immersed in nature. The unobstructed view to the horizon. The hot sand under your feet as you walked to the shoreline. Fast, uncrowded beach breaks. These things are vanishing or have vanished completely in OC. So, is there a place where you can still experience the solitude of nature? It more than likely won’t be by the ocean, unless it’s so cold people haven’t completely over run it. It will be somewhere unexpected, a new adventure that I think most surfers would relish the opportunity to explore a new life experience and not cling to the wreckage of a lifestyle that’s just a memory. Go for it!
Hey Dibi… I’ve spent the last 20 years chasing waves around the globe. It’s been great, but the fun ticket has been clipped and now I’m thinking what’s next. The generation of sponsored surfers before me were able to get in-house jobs with the companies who made their surf careers possible. That business model is gone and I’m feeling uncertain about my next step. Any suggestions? - The Last Wave
Hey Last Wave… I’ve mentioned many times in previous columns free online programs offered by Home Depot for training in skilled trades. The pay is good and there’s job security. If you want to stay in surfing, I’m sure after years of working on the road you’ve met plenty of people who are involved in one way or another. Talk to everyone, let them know you’re available, write a resume that you can email to anyone who is interested. You know someone, who knows someone, get the word out and pursue it, just like the swells you’ve chased for the last few decades, some fizzle, some sizzle…but didn’t give up. That’s a learned skill that will come in very handy as this next chapter of yours unfolds. Good Luck!
Hey Dibi… Is there life after surfing? - Beach Bum
Hey Beach Bum… I’m always amazed by this question. There’s so much wonder in the world, I can’t believe why you would want to put blinders on that only allow you to see life through such a narrow spectrum. It reminds me of when my kids were young and they’d tell me they’re bored. I’d answer, “you’re boring, that why.” Small kids have such tunnel vision they only see what’s right in front of them. The world is so big and filled with wonder, how can we fit all the opportunities around us to experience even one millionth of the magic into one lifetime. Is there life after surfing? You’ve only just scratched the surface and the adventure is just beginning.