ACC Safety Bulletin: When to say “no”: decision points and group decision making
When to say “no”: decision points and group decision making
By the Safety Committee
Whether it is during the trip, pre-trip planning, or even participant selection discussions, and whether you’re the trip coordinator or participant, it is not easy to say “no” to others.
Last year, we heard about climbers being benighted on a multi-pitch route and of skiers setting off avalanches. Contributing factors to these events included pushing ahead despite changing conditions (colloquially known as getthereitis), participant abilities, peer pressure, poor communication, and poor planning.
It can be helpful to help mitigate these factors with adequate pre-trip meeting time where expectations are set. One of the most important topics to address is ensuring everyone is comfortable saying “no” within the group, and outlining when to say “no” if you are uncomfortable and even more importantly if the task is beyond your abilities.
For trip coordinators, it can be difficult to assess everyone’s skill level and deny participation to someone who may not be up to the task. For participants, you might have less experience than expected, but feel that you may be disappointing the group if you request to bail. Having open, two-way communication between trip coordinators and participants is essential, as is being honest about the skills and experience you’re bringing to the group.
During the trip, objective conditions such as weather and terrain may change. Or maybe things are going well and there is a desire to expand the scope of the day; perhaps bag another summit, or try that harder route. The assumptions made at the beginning of the trip change when new information arrives or when there is a change of plan. Maintain situational awareness in order to manage these changes. Constantly re-evaluate and say “no” when you can no longer maintain the safety margin you’re comfortable with.
As a trip leader, this may seem like a lot of work, and can be very stressful. However, you are not alone on the trip. Make use of your resources, such as your trip-mates, club-mates, and section policies. Advertise the trip with a clear expectation of the participant’s abilities. When screening for participants, ask around to get a better understanding of their abilities. If the person is a new member, advise them to participate in a low risk event first so you can make an assessment.
When planning and during the trip, listen to your participants as to their assessments of the situation. When observing changing situations (either among participants or in the environment) start having conversations early about your observation and the potential implications. That way, if you have to alter plans, people won’t be as surprised. Assigning tasks to participants alleviates the coordinator from some of the workload, making it easier to maintain situational awareness. Make sure every single participant understands any change and its implication, and that they are still comfortable and confident in their continued participation. Proceeding onwards should be a consensus decision.
As a participant, speak up if at any time you feel that your skills are not a match with what is needed to achieve the objective. Be on the lookout for changing conditions, and bring it to the awareness of the coordinator for reassessment. If something is happening which you don’t understand, it is important to ask. There is no such thing as a stupid question.
From participants to trip coordinators, we all have a responsibility to stay safe in the mountains. Constantly evaluate the situation, and say “no” when appropriate. Not every “no” is the end of the trip, but sometimes saying “no” allows for a lifetime of coming back.
Get Involved
If you have an idea for future bulletins please contact safety@alpineclubofcanada.ca. You can help the club’s safety culture by reporting incidents and near misses using our reporting form. If ACC members would like support on safety issues in trip planning, please reach out and we would be happy to talk it through with you!
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