Why You're Missing Waves And What To Do About It

Everyone goes at their own pace when learning to surf, and some just have inherent ability. If you're a grom growing up by the coast and from a generational surf family, you've kind of hit the jackpot. Others find surfing a bit down the track, around their pre-teenage age years, and then there are some who don't get to experience the ocean until much later in life.

Yet, no matter when you start surfing, you can count on your surfing progression not being linear. Because learning and advancing can feel like a tangled road of spaghetti at times.

This could be for a whole number of reasons; life moves you from the coast, injury, big events getting in the way. Even if you are living by the ocean, perhaps your local's been suffering for a few years due to bad sand or any other ocean ailment. Maybe in the water, the tide's squandered the session, new swell enters the water and funks things up, the wind's swung, headspace, tiredness – the list is endless and exhausting. And then there's simply human error. As much as we don't like to admit it, some of the time, it's us who have blown it, not the ever-changing ocean dance-floor.

All you can do is try to mitigate against that. It does not matter how old you are, here are a few ways to make sure you don't miss a wave, and even if you do, a way to reduce the guilt knowing you've done everything right anyway.

Positioning, Positioning, Positioning

This sounds really simple, but it's surprising how many people get it wrong. If you're an inexperienced surfer, you should work up to taking off on the peak of the wave and choose which direction you're going as the wave approaches. Watch the line-up and those who have more experience in the water. This will help to know where to sit in order to catch waves -- but wait your turn before taking a swing at it. And definitely do not overcrowd an already packed-out spot. The reason you want to work up to taking off on the peak is; this is where there is the most energy of the wave is, allowing your to get to your feet, then the rest is up to you.

If you miss the peak, and, most importantly, if the wave is empty, you can take off on the wave's shoulder, head down, paddle hard. But make sure no-one is up and riding on the wave before attempting to paddle in. Look both ways along the wave, then look again in case someone with more experience swings late. Experienced surfers already know this, and best to stick to the rules of etiquette.

Think About Your Paddling

Paddling can be a whole topic on its own. There are many different theories about how to paddle a surfboard, ranging from long, deep strokes to the S-paddle, which pulls your arms in and under the board on the stroke for better paddle efficiency, or so they say. The best thing here is just keep it simple. You don't need to overly complicate paddle rhythm and timing, not when you're getting to grips with it. When a set is approaching and you turn to go, does instinct take-over, or are you scrambling like some sort of dual-spin water-wheel? Let's break this down; aim your board to shore and keep your head up. Reach your arms, full extension, to the nose of your board and pull through the water deep while keeping your arms glued to the rails of your board. This will help generate more paddle efficiency and power.

The shape of the wave will depend on what happens next. If the wave is steeper, it'll start to pitch sooner. So you will want to get to your feet as soon as the wave picks you up, so you don't launch yourself over the lip. If the wave is a bit fatter, or breaks slower, paddle an additional few times to make sure you're on the wave and then get to your feet.

If you're a beginner to intermediate surfer, it may be an idea to stick to these sorts of waves until you're feeling comfortable. Then move on to steeper, hollower waves as you catch more and more waves. There's no hard or fast rule about when to progress, just when you're feeling ready and so long as you abide by line-up etiquette, you should be fine. Even then, you may want to find a couple of steeper waves to yourself for a while. Yes, this can be difficult when the water's getting busier and busier, but the pay-off will be rewarding when you move over to crowded line-ups on better waves.

Choose The Conditions Best Suited To You

There are many reasons why you're missing waves – and choosing the right conditions may be a simple fix. If you're early in your surfing journey, the last thing you need is a gigantic beachbreak close-out to get to grips with the many factors of learning to surf.

Don't feel the pressure to paddle out, only to sit there, white-knuckling and waiting for a wave to come through, only to potentially wipe out and send you packing to shore. Start soft, aim for the white water and relative safety of the inside.

The other end is true too, if you're expecting to get a performance shortboard working in one foot slop, you might. But it's not going to be a fun time. Expand your quiver, check the conditions and explore – but keep local nuance at the forefront of your mind.

Level Up

Seeing yourself surf for the first time via video might be a humbling experience. But it's an essential part to understand where you may might be going wrong. It may have felt like you were on the peak of that wave, but the playback could tell a different story. You'll also be able to see your paddle technique and start to figure out how to further dial that in. Have a buddy film from shore then repay the favor.

Surfing, like most outdoor hobbies, requires you to stay ready – and there is a difference between being fit and being surf fit. The best runners in the world are going to get gassed on a half a kilometer paddle out during the northern hemisphere's winter swell season. During flat days, consider pool laps to keep the ocean fitness high. You can train on land too, using a mix of weights and bodyweight exercises to keep on top of your form.

There's also your own mental space to consider as well. Surfers like Tom Carroll swear by breath techniques as part of training your mind. Sometimes, surfing can be about quietening the brain for a moment and letting go of the stresses on land. This may be getting in the way of your session. If fear has become a factor too, then consider breath-work exercises to harness that energy and transform it into a positive action. Overcoming fear and harnessing fear are two different things and are worthy of column inches in their own right. Most of all, just try to enjoy the roller-coaster of progressing in your surfing life.