Bert Kreischer’s Life Lesson About Surfing: ‘It’s Not About the Big Waves’ (Video)

I’ve told this story a handful of times, but here it goes again.

A few years back, I was surfing at Turtle Bay on the North Shore of Oahu. A small day. Summertime. Beginner waves. Everyone in the water was still learning. Attempting to be generous, I let the occasional “set” wave – maybe a two-footer – roll through.

Then, comedian extraordinaire Bert Kreischer paddled out. I was on the outside, and he was further in. I went for a wave, stood up, and Bert began paddling too. I dropped low, snaked in front of him, and kept going down the line. We shared a chuckle after. No harm done. No egos. Just plain fun in small waves, on gigantic soft-tops.

Anyway, recently, on Sterling Spencer’s podcast, Bert made an appearance and delivered a heart-felt sentiment – a life lesson, if you will – about surfing small waves. Kreischer, who hails from Florida, grew up surfing in New Smyrna Beach, aka the unofficial "shark attack capital of the world." And he told this tale while on the podcast:

“When we were kids, we’d surf at New Smyrna. Sometimes, the break furthest out was scary. And the first time I went surfing out there, it was terrifying. I knew it was the shark attack capital of the world. It was really deep. I couldn’t touch the ground anymore. I didn’t enjoy it.

“I was just going to go in and take a break. As I came in, Adam and Kroy, the two younger brothers, were surfing the smaller waves on the inside. Kroy, who’s one of my best friends in the world, said to me: ‘I don’t know why you’re surfing out there with them. The smaller waves on the inside are so much more fun.’ We were maybe 14 at the time. He goes: ‘The smaller waves are more fun, man.’ I told his dad after he passed away.

“When you look at life, it’s not about the big waves; it’s about having fun. Sure, you can get more notoriety surfing the big waves. But it’s not about what other people think about you. It’s about what it does for you. And quite often, it’s just having a good time.”

See the full episode here.