ACC Gazette Section Stories: Edmonton
A Tour Of The Wapta Icefields
Story by Ellen Homola for the 2025 Gazette, photos by Dustin McLachlan
I hadn’t met any of our group of nine who would be traversing the Wapta Icefields, so we met in an Edmonton playground to practise our crevasse rescue. I had taken a crevasse course but hadn’t done any glacier travel since, so I practised every day for a week in my living room. We carpooled to Lake Louise where we spent the night at the hostel in shared dorm rooms just like a bunch of kids on a sleepover.
Our first objective was the Bow Hut, which I had never been to previously. I had some trouble on the approach as my ski skins started slipping as soon as the trail became steep. I got great advice on technique from the group, but eventually I had to put on my ski crampons and slog my way up to the hut.
The Bow hut sleeps 30 and feels more like a busy hostel than a hut. When I arrived, I was so tired that I could barely talk, but I got my second wind after a snack and a cup of tea. My team was on kitchen duty, and we cooked risotto with chicken sausage. I slept well and recovered my energy for the next day. My pack felt much lighter minus one dinner for six.
Rather than the short ski to the Balfour Hut that we had planned, we decided to go up to the Wapta glacier and climb Mt Gordon. The crevasse risks were increased due to a thin snowpack, and we were roped together. We reached the base of Mt Gordon, but it was too windy to climb the peak.
Three of our party skied down the steep couloir which led directly to the hut while the rest of us skied back to the hut the long way. It was my first time skiing with a rope on, and I fell many times. Many thanks to my friend for lifting me up by my pack so I didn’t have to take it off!
When I arrived at the Balfour Hut, I was tired but felt much better than I had at Bow the night before. I was glad to have had the chance to experience more ski mountaineering on a longer route. We had an amazing spaghetti supper. The hut sleeps 18 and the vestibule provides storage and keeps snow and cold air out of the hut.
The next morning, two of our team decided to return to the Bow Hut and to the highway because of a painful attack of tendonitis. We were sad to see them go, but I felt confident that both groups had good leadership. Our remaining party of seven took the Balfour High Col route to the Scott Duncan Hut. This was my favorite day of the trip, as we had clear skies and sunshine as we crossed the Great Divide. The views of the mountains were stunning, and the glaciers seemed infinite.
The Scott Duncan Hut feels like a small treehouse with great views and a lot of exposure. There is no vestibule like at the Balfour Hut, so it can be cold and windy when the door opens, and the floor becomes wet with melted snow from boots. We had an excellent shrimp pasta for dinner and then fell asleep to the sound of the wind singing through the cables that hold down the hut.
The next day we skied out to the highway via the Schiesser-Lomas route. It was steep and icy, and I side-slipped down the whole mountain. Next came the steep and narrow creek descent with trees and ice-covered moguls with running water between them. One of my colleagues kindly suggested that I take off my skis and walk. Finally, we arrived at Sherbrooke Lake for either skate skiing across the ice or an opportunity for relaxed conversation on our way home. Our group was reunited at the Lake Louise Hostel, and we enjoyed a hot meal in the cafe.
Thanks to everyone in the group for helping me feel safe, welcome, and supported. The Wapta Traverse is a bucket list trip of mine, and it was a great way for me to celebrate my recent 60th birthday. The Wapta was just as challenging, beautiful, and inspiring as I imagined. I would love to do it again, and the only thing I would change would be my skins.
Regional ACC Sections are the Alpine Club of Canada’s strength. Membership in an ACC Section enables members to participate in numerous summer and winter mountaineering, rock climbing, and skiing activities, coordinated by experienced amateur leaders in their local area. The majority of activities offered by sections are either free or are offered on a break-even basis to their members. Through ACC Section trips you’ll learn all the basics you need to travel safely in the mountains, while meeting new friends to enjoy your experiences with.
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