Behind the walls of the Kremlin: Putin’s official home and nerve centre of the war

Step inside the Kremlin and see what goes on inside...

Standing proud and dominant, deep inside the beating heart of Moscow, you can’t miss or ignore the hugely impressive complex of buildings that is Russia’s iconic Kremlin.

It’s many things, the Kremlin. Not least an intimidating symbol of the country’s immense power and long, storied history.

Erected over centuries, its walls bear daily witness to the ebb and flow of Russian, European and world politics, wars and diplomacy. It’s more than just a giant fortress, however; it’s a microcosm of Russian identity. 

To call the Kremlin big is like calling its current tenant Vladimir Putin ‘a bit of a grouch’. The UNESCO World Heritage Site spans a full 68 acres and comprises all sorts of sizeable and rather stunning architectural marvels.

With a history dating back almost a thousand years, it’s the sort of place that could justify a biography well over several thousand pages. One its writer could call ‘War and Peace’, had a rather well-known Russian author not already nabbed that title for something else some 150 years ago.

Don’t worry, though. We’ll try to keep our lowdown on what happens behind the walls of the Kremlin significantly shorter than that…

What is the Kremlin?

Well, first and foremost it’s a fortified compound. It’s also the official residence of the President of the Russian Federation. Currently, the rather controversial figure of a certain Mr. V. Putin. 

It’s also home to various administrative bodies of the Russian government. It’s a vital strategic defence centre for the country too.

And then there are the somewhat softer sides to it: the Kremlin is a big tourist attraction, working nicely as half of a double act with its neighbour, the Red Square.

It’s an undeniable historical landmark too, one which preserves and showcases Russia’s rich history, housing all sorts of important buildings and cultural treasures and artefacts.

The complex consists of over 15 structures, 20 towers and more than 1.5 kilometres (around a mile) of walls, some of which are six metres or 20 feet thick.

There are also lots of very pretty gardens within the complex’s grounds, featuring all sorts of opulent and lush greenery, historic monuments and pathways. Offering visitors and those that work there plenty of serene spaces amidst the bustling buildings dripping with intense political scheming.

The Kremlin’s history, like much of Russian history in general, is long and complex. If you’re inspired to read up on the finer details of it all, make sure to book a good couple of weeks out in your calendar. 

Does Vladimir Putin live in the Kremlin?

The Kremlin is, officially, Vladimir Putin’s home. Just as The White House is officially the US President’s home.

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Putin has decided not to live there, though. Much like his one-time western peer, the ex-POTUS Donald Trump, he’s opted to live somewhere other than his official residence.

Instead, Putin lives in his Novo-Ogoryevo residence. It’s still in the Moscow region (only just), in the slightly fancier and suburban west side of the city. 

Just because Mr. Putin isn’t at home watching Russia Today and microwaving bowls of borscht for his lunch, that doesn’t mean that his official residence – found somewhere undisclosed (for security reasons) in the Kremlin Senate – is open to visitors.

That and all administrative areas are closed off to the public. Only the Kremlin’s historical buildings, churches and museums are accessible.

Putin’s frequent commutes to work used to cause major traffic flare-ups. The presidential motorcade would cause daily back-ups on the roads around the Kremlin, much to the annoyance of most motoring Muscovites.

To help alleviate this, the president now treats himself to semi-regular helicopter rides to work, having a helipad built on Kremlin grounds back in 2013. His aerial journeys to and from work now only take around 20 minutes and hold up no traffic on the ground.

In addition to the Senate Palace, there’s Sobornaya Square, the historic royal residence Terem Palace, the Great Kremlin Palace, the Kremlin Palace of Congresses, the Spasskaya Tower with its famous clock, the Armoury Chamber museum, the Tsar Cannon, Tsar Cannon, Patriarch’s Palace and the Ivan the Great Bell Tower.

And that’s before the various cathedrals and churches: Annunciation Cathedral, Assumption Cathedral, Archangel’s Cathedral, the Church of the Twelve Apostles and the Church of the Deposition of the Robe. There’s plenty there. Especially if you like religious buildings.

As you can imagine, Kremlin security is pretty tight. They employ a multi-layered system comprising personnel from various Russian security agencies, including the Federal Security Service (FSB) and Presidential Security Service. These recruits form the ‘Presidential Regiment’. It’s an elite and revered unit that’s tricky to get into.

The Russian daily newspaper Russia Beyond has claimed that in addition to meeting specific BMI requirements, candidates must also be within a specific height range.

Most interestingly of all, it’s said they have to be able to hear a whisper up to 20 feet away. Which makes the Kremlin sound like it might be quite a gossipy place to work.

Advanced surveillance technology, checkpoints and perimeter defences further bolster security there.

The Kremlin’s fortified walls and towers, along with restricted access points, add even more protection. Constant vigilance against threats, both physical and cyber, ensures the safety of the Kremlin’s occupants and the integrity of Russia’s political hub.

Visitors are teased with an air of mystery every time they catch a glimpse of a cordoned off area or section of the complex which is restricted access. Obviously, security is tight in many areas, for fairly obvious reasons.

Adding to the general feeling of intrigue, there is a labyrinthine maze of underground tunnels deep below the compound. It’s a ‘secret’ network primarily used as a bomb shelter of sorts. 

During various periods in Russian history, the Kremlin has undergone extensive renovations and reconstructions, leading to the discovery of these hidden passages and underground chambers.

However, detailed information about the extent and layout of these tunnels is scarce, as they’re all off-limits to the public and tightly guarded by the sort of security personnel you really don’t want to upset.

Plenty of theories swirl around the internet suggesting that these tunnels were built centuries ago as escape routes for Russian rulers in times of emergency or invasion. Others speculate that they were (and maybe even still are) used for more clandestine purposes such as espionage or smuggling.