The old world offers delicious detours from the same-old wines
The next time you’re wine shopping – possibly headed toward the same-old choices – do yourself a favor and make a detour to the Old World. Wines from these regions in France, Italy and Spain are easy drinking, versatile, delicious and won’t disappoint.
Rhône Valley, France
Considered one of the largest wine producing regions in the world, the Rhône Valley is divided into two distinct vinicultural areas that use different grapes and wine styles.
The northern Rhône is known for single varietal wines and produces wines from only four grapes, one red and three whites. The red wines are made from Syrah grapes and are typically tannic, spicy and with pepper and gamey characters. Viognier is full-bodied and aromatic with peach notes, a creamy texture and stone-fruit flavors. The other whites include Roussanne, contributing honey characters; and Marsanne, traditionally used in both white and red wine blends to add depth and texture. Look for selections from Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage, and Côte-Rôtie Rhône.
The southern Rhône’s AOC quality wine production is sizable, second only to Bordeaux. Here both the white and red wines are usually blends. The majority is red with Grenache as the main grape in blends; but white and pink wines are on the rise. Fifty percent of the wines shipped to the United States from the Rhône Valley come from the Côtes-du-Rhône – and for good reason. They are approachable, crowd pleasing and food friendly. If you want a little more complexity and elegance, check out wines from Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Piedmont, Italy
Situated on the fringe of the Alps, Piedmont is well-known for its Barbaresco and Barolo wines made from Nebbiolo grapes. While they have the same grape in common, the style and concentration of these wines is very different due to their aging requirements. Traditionally Babaresco has floral and red berry aromas with clove, white pepper and refined tannins; Barolo, with its extended aging, is bold with rosé and tar aromas, dried red fruit, herbal notes and complex tannins. Even though these wines are very popular, they represent less than 5 percent of the region’s overall wine production.
Barbera and Dolcetto are other red grapes from Piedmont you should know. Barbera is the most widely planted red grape there. Its style is normally light and easy drinking with a variety of dark berry flavors, spice notes and moderate to heavy tannins. Dolcetto is medium-bodied and deep in color, with spicy, earthy characters and ripe blackberry and cherry flavors. In shopping for these wines look for the DOCG quality designation on the label, which signifies stricter winemaking guidelines and regulations. Two of the major white varietals from the region are Cortese and Arneis. Cortese is the grape responsible for Gavi wines, which are dry and crisp with vibrant acidity. Arneis is medium-bodied, with apple aromas, stone fruit and light almond flavors. These wines are made for early consumption.
Loire Valley, France
Known as the most diverse wine region in France, the Loire Valley produces a spectrum of wine styles from an array of grapes. Within its four regions are 87 appellations which make still, sparkling, rosé and natural wines. Often overlooked, you will find Loire selections to be fresh, light to medium-bodied and well-valued.
Most of the wines from the Loire Valley are made from single grape varietals. Red wines typically will show floral and red fruit aromas with berry notes, a hint of smokiness and subtle tannins. The whites will generally have apple flavors with mineral and tropical fruit notes, while the rosés are lean with raspberry and strawberry notes produced in both dry and sweet styles.
Loire’s most prominent red grape is Cabernet Franc, with the best examples coming from Touraine. It’s also used in rosé and sparkling wine blends. Other notable red grapes there are Gamay and Pinot Noir. Loire is also making a name for itself with Sauvignon Blanc, a tart wine that’s medium-bodied with light minerality and bright acidity. Muscadet, Chenin Blanc and Melon De Bourgogne are also popular.
Next to Champagne, the Loire Valley is the largest sparkling wine producer in France. Made the same way as Champagne using the Traditional Method, Crémant de Loire has a lot to offer. These wines show light lemon and pear characteristics with a creamy texture and vibrant acidity and are much less expensive. Loire Appellations to remember include Saumur, Anjou, Touraine, Sancerre and Nantes.
Rioja, Spain
Located in the northern part of the Iberian Peninsula of Spain, Rioja has long been synonymous with the full-bodied, big tannin red wines made there. The region includes three divergent areas: Rioja Alavesa, Rioja, Alta and Rioja Oriental. Of the wines produced in Rioja, 86 percent are red; but white and rosé wines also are gaining notoriety.
The dominant grape among red Riojas is Tempranillo, which adds a complexity of plum and dried fruit flavors to the wine. It also has an affinity to oak, which helps with the aging process and integrates the tannins and other characters of the wine. Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo are the red grapes used to blend. If you haven’t had a chance to try it, White Riojas, made from Viura grapes, are a great aperitif.
Both red and white wines from Rioja fall under one of four classifications that are based on bottle aging and time spent in oak. Generico (known previously as Joven) being the youngest and Gran Reserva the most aged. The specific classification of the wine as well as “DOCa” that recognizes the highest quality from the region can be found on the label.
Recommended Old World wines
Cune Rioja 2019, Crianza, Rioja, Spain, $13. Total Wine & More, totalwine.com.
Fratelli Ponte Roero Arneis 2022 DOCG, Piedmont, Italy, $19.99. Primo Liquors, primoliquors.com.
Domaine Gassier 2020 Côtes-du-Rhône, Rhône Valley, France, $18.99. Forum Wine Shop, Fort Lauderdale, forumwineshop.com.
Domaine de la Bregeonette-Folle Blanche 2021, Loire Valley, France, $22.99. West Palm Wine Co., West Palm Beach, westpalmwine.com.
G.B. Burlotto 2021 Dolcetto D’Alba, Piedmont, Italy, $29.99. The Wine Wave, Delray Beach, thewinewave.com.
Patient Cottat Sancerre 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, Loire Valley, France, $32.99. Virginia Philip Wine Spirits & Academy, Palm Beach.
Flor de Muga Rosado 2022 Rioja, Spain, $36.99. Virginia Philip Wine Shop, Delray Beach, virginiaphilipwineandspirits.com.
2019 Domaine Philippe Gilbert “35 Rangs” Pinot Noir, Menetou-Salon Loire Valley, France, $59.99. Forum Wine Shop, Fort Lauderdale, forumwineshop.com.
Contino Rioja 2015 Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain, $69.99. 305 Wines, Miami, 305wines.com.
Diego Pressenda Barolo 2016 DOCG Bricco San Pietro, Piedmont, $79.99. Forum Wine Shop, Fort Lauderdale, forumwineshop.com.